I lived in Los Angeles for about 2 years, attempting to become a career comedian. I struggled with an eating disorder and had zero free time during that time. So I should have visited most of the staples of LA dining. Part of the joy of my return to LA is experiencing these places for the first time. Pizzeria Mozza was one of these bucket list locations. A fabled eatery started by the infamous Nancy Silverton. I’m generally wary of most restaurants with tons of hype. So I knew it would be good, but I wondered just how good. I was skeptical, so I went into my experience, ready for disappointment. Let’s unpack.
I arrived for my reservation but entered the Osteria by mistake, where the staff quickly undressed me as a “pizzeria patron.” I was speedily and disdainfully shown to the adjacent building. The host sat with me, and I began to look around. The lighting was a little too dim, and the music too loud. But overall, it’s a nice room with elegant touches and plenty of space. The staff was friendly and welcoming. The vibe is casual but still a little elevated. After the rough start, I began to feel comfortable and looked over the menu.
The menu is split into salads, starters/plates, and pizza. Everything looks good, but I was there for the pies. My dining partner and I ordered Nancy’s chopped salad and 3 pizzas to share; the meatball, the margarita, and the allo Benno. The wine and beer lists are fantastic. I wasn’t drinking, so I couldn’t get into the content. But I’ll tell you right now their Diet Coke was lovely. And it complimented the meal so well from start to finish.
The salad arrived first. Radicchio, frisée lettuce, salami, cheese, all the goods. Lovely oil finish and toss with a great height. The salad itself was beautiful, but the taste was underwhelming. There wasn’t enough acid to shop the bitterness of the radicchio. But it was still enjoyable. Ok. Enough bullshit and into the main event. The pizzas arrived. They are 10 inches in diameter and cut into 4 pieces. The crust is beautiful and dark brown with a distinct tone and smell. The toppings were perfectly balanced and presented. Visually they were impressive. Taste-wise, let’s break it down.
I tried the Allo Benno first. The pizza is topped with thin-cut pineapple, speck, jalapeño, and cheese. The first bite was mesmerizing. I’ve never had crust with flavor and crunch like that one. There’s a distinct boldness to it, potentially from wheat or cornmeal. But the texture and structure are gorgeous. It’s crunchy but soft at the same time. It’s a little sweet but not overly so. With the caramelized pineapple and fatty speck, it absolutely blew my mind. The margarita was similarly beautiful. Simple and elegant, topped with a sauce that danced between tangy and salty. Quality oil enhanced the experience and made each bite as wonderful as the last. The meatball was lovely too. But it had no chance to shine with the two other pizzas being so distinct. Anything could go on that crust and make you cry tears of joy.
So what’s my verdict? I’m angry at how delighted I was by Mozza. Not because I wanted to hate it. But because my natural inclination is to distrust things like this. I wish I had trusted that it would be good! But I guess that makes the outcome purer. There is a bit of an ego there. It’s not the most relaxing or fun room. But I think the ego is earned. I’d go back to Mozza for that pizza anytime. It’s one of my favorite pizza experiences to date, hands down. Truly unlike any other Neapolitan pizza I’ve ever had. Two thumbs up.
